Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
